jüdisch - jewish

the jewish quarter in prague survived WWII at the request of hitler. he wanted to have a museum dedicated to "an extinct race." it's an amazing neighborhood containing traditional czech-jewish restaurants, antique bookstores and about 5 synagogues. one of the most interesting parts is a cemetery with over 20,000 headstones. (before the holocaust jews in prague were only allowed one area to bury their dead so the bodies are 12 deep.)
dan has been told by co-workers that there are certain neighborhoods in berlin that he should avoid because of anti-semetism. everywhere you go there is at least a small reminder of the war, even if it is the sleek new architecture that has replaced the areas hardest hit by bombs.
a museum to an extinct race and neighborhoods that are off-limits make for a strange, awareness of the lack of judaism here. dan has said that he feels more jewish here - not more religious, but more culturally jewish. he has been in the minority as a jew in many places he has lived, but it is a very different, creepy feeling circumstance that makes it so. to me it is a little scary but he doesn't seem scared.
maybe because the rabbi that invented the story of the golem had the same family name as dan's ancestors. the golem was a large being that protected the jews of prague from those who wished them harm. this story brought comfort to jews in prague for decades. perhaps optimism in the face of discrimination runs in the family.

4 Comments:
This is written with such sensitivity. I appreciate having an opportunity to read about some of these issues and your reactions to them before we come to visit.
I must admit, if you guys had not moved (temporarily) to Berlin I would never have chosen Germany as a destination for a vacation.(ok, I have to admit--when I was 20 and took my NBBS tour of Europe for 6 weeks we spent some time in Germany, which I actually enjoyed, even though it felt creepy.) My wish to see you and share your European adventure gave me the push I needed to say "it's time to move on...WWII is long over...the German people have taken responsibility for their actions" etc., so I am a little unerved to learn that there are neighborhoods where anti-semitism is so blatant that Jews should not visit.
I think I understand what Dan means when he says that he feels more Jewish in Berlin. I suspect Jerry and I will spend more time visiting places that are decidedly Jewish than we have in other European locales. Hopefully, this is a trip that will not only mean good food, good wine and good museums and a schloss or 2, but also an opportunity to confront history and the way we think about ourselves.
By
Anonymous, at February 28, 2006 1:26 AM
I LOVE this photo Jordan! and now that I've seen how easy it is to get to your blog, I think I'll be making it regular reading!
- Liz
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Anonymous, at February 28, 2006 2:50 PM
i give credit where credit is due: this photo was taken by sara on our trip to prague, not me. isn't it awesome?
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jordan, at March 01, 2006 10:14 AM
I definitely had the same feelings about being sensitive to being Jewish when I was in Berlin. But I loved seeing the Jewish quarter in Prague and in Krakow too. I like the sense of continuity and endurance.
By
Anonymous, at March 02, 2006 8:38 PM
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